Thursday, December 15, 2022

Far OUT in Fashion


Thanks to lovely friend Nancy I found this photo on my Facebook feed. I love it! I hate it! I want to look like that! I'm afraid to look like that!

Because it's obviously a bit of a goof, I don't feel bad addressing (pun intended) the issue of mature women turned out as if they are going to a come as you are party— "Come as you are after you raid your closet blindfolded". These are women often photographed by Ari Seth Cohen for his "Advanced Age" projects. Many of them New Yorkers, they make a concerted effort to dress for display. They are out-and-about, often in gangs, knowing they will be looked at and dressing the part. While I admire the nerve, I don't call it fashion, I call it self-promotion.

I don't mean Iris Apfel. She may look way-far-out, but she has something to say, and she says it well. No one can imitate her; I would never try, but her being does sometimes give me license to add that extra necklace. 

Empress Iris

Then there is Trinny Woodall, who has never met a sequin she didn't love or a "trainer" she didn't covet. Nevertheless she dresses for this world. She's not afraid of color or sparkle, and a 20 minute video of her flying through a Zara is sometimes just the jolt I need to feel fashion-revived.

Trinny Woodall

So a minute in, I looked at that top photo and knew what I would do: ditch the electric hairstyle—my own white pixie is fine—keep the coat and bag, turn the skirt into trousers and the shoes into flats, in this case remove a necklace or two...and stand up straight.

Monday, November 14, 2022

Foiled Again: Quest for the Perfect Dress

And only $39.90!

This time I thought for sure I'd found it—the perfect dress. The dress that would cover many occasions (and cover up a few other things). I loved this olive green number so much in the dressing room, I bought it and immediately ordered its two other colors, black and grey. I would now be set for anything—day, night, dressy, casual, spring, summer, fall, winter, north, south, east, west...you get the idea.

Olive, black, grey

The dressing room mirror usually leaves a lot to be desired, Zara's especially. The lighting is bad; the space cramped; the ambience nil. I always figure if it looks good in the dressing room, it will look great in real life. I was convinced I had found it, the perfect dress. The illusion held when I tried it on again at home. In fact, so excited was I to wear my new dress, I wore it the very next day.

I will admit it's rare, when I make an effort, that I won't snag a compliment or two in the course of the day. I don't do anything spectacular, but I try to get dressed. Today was only errands around town, but nowadays few make that effort. We are so used to leisurewear-as-streetwear and other sins against fashion, a woman actually in a dress with accessories and makeup can elicit a nice comment or two. 

Nobody said "boo". As the afternoon wore on, and I felt more and more uncomfortable in that dress, I could see why. It just didn't sit well. The neckline, higher in back than front, stuck out funny. Without any seaming or darts, the back sort of hung off my shoulders, fighting with the cowl neckline that wanted to hitch backwards. Plus with no slits at the sides I found myself taking mincing steps. Worst of all, late in the day I noticed white deodorant streaks along the sides where I'd struggled to pull it on that morning.

If ever I wished for a rainstorm and the emergency vinyl slicker I keep in my trunk!

I've long touted the "road test" as a sure test of an outfit. It's the reason I caution anyone against taking something brand-spanking-new on a trip (from shoes to underwear). So sure was I about this being the Perfect Dress I didn't even consider a road test. 

Denial is a river in Egypt and a woman loathe to admit she made a mistake. Not wishing to see it staring at me in the closet, I immediately took it to the donate box in the garage. There have been no second guesses and no regrets other than I threw away $39.90. The other two dresses arrived. I didn't even open the package. 

What have I learned? Probably not much. Hope springs eternal. We strive for perfection, though we sense we may never reach it. Such is the journey. That one perfect dress worked for Little Orphan Annie. Why not me?



Tuesday, September 13, 2022

Stylish Read Republished: "What Shall I Wear?"

Claire McCardell

She's back (though in my mind she's never left)! Claire McCardell's wonderful 1956 how-to, "What Shall I Wear" (subtitled The What, Where, When and How Much of Fashion") has been published again. This makes the third time. I've long talked about this book—how I took it out so often from the Shaker Heights public library I eventually just stole it in 1957 when I was 15, how I had no regrets whatsoever because who could possibly want this book more than I???, how I xeroxed copies of it for years for friends and even Isaac Mizrahi*, how I eventually returned it (anonymously) to the library after finding my own used copy on ebay. Good or bad, that's all part of my history, and I own it. 

1956 edition
2012 edition
2022 edition

"What Shall I Wear" is no mere nostalgia piece. At its first publication Claire McCardell was a recognized name in fashion. Her affordable designs for Townley were sold in major department stores like Lord & Taylor. Her use of unusual fabrics for the time (gingham, denim, jersey), easy shapes and dearth of unnecessary gew-gaws were loved by the fashion press as well as the best-dressed set (Babe Paley was a fan). She had her hand in everything from paper dolls to car interiors. Claire McCardell was the most recognized woman in American fashion at a time when few American designers were known by name.

After her death in 1958 at age 53 the business was shuttered. Her innovations lived on—worn any ballet slippers lately?—but her designs, as well as "What Shall I Wear?", lay dormant. The book was first republished in 2012 without much fanfare. That edition is since out of print. The prolific designer Tory Burch discovered Claire McCardell and not only produced her Spring/Summer 2022 collection in tribute, she managed to have "What Shall I Wear" published again in all its original glory and with a foreword by her, afterword by Allison Tolman and photo insert of Claire McCardell designs.

Tory Burch for S/S 2022

This time the reasoning is clear (or Claire if you'll forgive the pun): Claire McCardell is as fresh and relatable as she was at the designs' origins in the 30s, 40s, and 50s. Claire herself lived and wore her work, sometimes for years before she could convince buyers to sign on. Her designs were always purposeful and easy to wear: a "popover" that was more than an apron and could be worn over a dress as a stylish time saver in the kitchen or a "monastic" tent dress that fit the wearer's shape and could be belted many ways. She invented a capsule wardrobe of "five easy pieces" that foreshadowed Donna Karan's capsule by about 20 years. And she wrote the most wonderful book about how to dress that I've ever read.


Truth be told, Claire had help. I mean, she was far too busy to devote herself to the task of writing (which is hard believe me). Interestingly the only parts of "What Shall I Wear?" that sound dated are the "wifey" references to dropping your husband off at the train station and dressing up for his business dinners, which have the stamp of a ghostwriter and commercial appeal. But its jaunty, first-person tone still does what it always has. "What Shall I Wear?" asks you to look at what you wear as who you are and/or want to be. In the '50s that was a freedom rarely granted in fashion. Today that's a freedom we cherish but can be reluctant to embrace. 


Oh, and those drawings. I had never heard of the illustrator Annabrita before or since, but she drew the woman I am still trying to become. It never ends.

*Even today original copies are as rare as hen's teeth. There's one on ebay now for $450.00.  

Friday, September 9, 2022

Stylish Shopping: Bloomingdale's

59th and Lexington, NYC

The New York Times just ran a feature in its Styles section on Bloomingdale's, the fabled New York department store. Celebrating its 150th anniversary, Bloomingdale's if anything is a survivor. So many New York stores have vanished over time, and I suspect Bloomingdale's better days may be behind it.

https://www.nytimes.com/2022/09/08/style/bloomingdales-150-years.html?searchResultPosition=1

The piece is a tribute to Bloomingdale's from fashion's movers and shakers. It could easily become a book. But what about the rest of us? Scratch any woman who has shopped in New York as far back as you can find one and you will uncover memories of Bloomingdale's.

Right this way...

I would go there despite, in the beginning, being able to afford nothing. When I moved from Cleveland after college in 1964 I thought NYC stopped at 57th Street. The upper east side was a revelation. Home then became a studio apartment on 82nd and Lexington. My bed was a hollow door on 4 chrome legs with a thick piece of foam for a mattress. There was a place that sold them, the Door Store.

I would stop into Bloomingdale's on my walks home from work and on weekends. Everyone loved Bloomingdale's. Since we all were starting up apartments, the room settings were like catnip. Some of my friends who managed to bring home a living wage actually shopped there. And we didn't call it "Bloomie's", either. Bloomingdale's was and always will be just that. 

'70s Bloomingdale model rooms by Barbara D'Arcy

Church mice may have had better furniture than me, but I tricked myself into thinking I was gathering "inspiration". Of course I did really, really want one of those impractical leather chaises or a giant urn of peacock feathers. Although the rooms themselves are a blur, I could have lived in any one, surrounded by piles of pillows, ferns and animal hide rugs.

The most overarching memory is of eucalyptus. I could never figure out why that particular floor (the fifth I think) smelled so strongly of it until someone explained the old radiators used eucalyptus oil. To this day I will sniff a bunch of it and be transported. 

I would sometimes make myself a little sick, feeling certain I would never be able to buy a thing. Flash forward: I now have so much "stuff" I don't know what to do with it, despite regular purges and paring-downs. The door bed is long gone as are the peacock feathers.

The famous brown bag
 
My greatest Bloomingdale's memory also took place in the early days but involved apparel. I was a junior staffer on Glamour magazine. One day the editor-in-chief, Kathleen Casey Johnson, stopped by my desk to ask about my outfit. I was wearing a two-piece Banlon leopard print number that cost $10 in Bloomingdale's basement store. They had one then. She marched me into the fashion department and paraded me before the editors, saying, "Now if SHE could find this for $10 there's no reason you can't bring me clothes that cost less than the ones you're showing me." I'm not sure how the editors felt about this moment, but I loved it.

Wednesday, August 31, 2022

Stylish Read: "Fictionally Fabulous"


Once upon a time I sat in front of my VCR (remember those?) with a videotape of "Sabrina" and paused to sketch every outfit Audrey Hepburn wore. That served as inspiration from my favorite actress in one of my favorite movies.

Anne Keenan Higgins wrote and illustrated "Fictionally Fabulous", a sweet, small book (6"x7 3/4") that illustrates and describes clothes of many characters we love to love in film and television. Besides Sabrina there are two more of Audrey's—Jo in "Funny Face" and Holly in "Breakfast at Tiffany's". Subjects range from 1929's "Pandora's Box" with Louise Brooks as Lulu to 2015's "Scandal" with Tarajii P. Henson as Cookie Lyon.

Along the way are visits with Lucy, Laura, Annie, Patricia, Carrie, Lady Mary—a total of 35 memorable make-believe style icons. Some receive a longer treatment, like Jenny Cavalleri in "Love Story":

Ali MacGraw with Ryan O'Neal

Others picture that seminal look. Who didn't love the polka dot dress in "Pretty Woman"??

Julia Roberts with Richard Gere

"Fictionally Fabulous" is still available on Amazon at a nice price ($8.68 when last checked).  This was a gift from a lovely friend, and would be a lovely gift to anyone, even yourself.

Friday, August 26, 2022

Women We Love: Bonnie Trompeter Lowe


"Take a picture. It'll last longer." How true. Sixteen photographs in an old Life magazine have stayed with me for the past 64 years. 


In 1958, when I was 16 and sure I would never have a date let alone a boyfriend, I bought an issue of Life magazine at the Summit Hotel in Uniontown, Pennsylvania. My mother and I were on a week's vacation at this rambling old resort in southwestern Pennsylvania. The pretty young woman on the cover is enjoying a sailboat ride. Inside, 14-year-old Bonnie Trompeter is discovering "the fun of being pretty" in a seven-page story. Well, at least someone is enjoying their teenage years, I thought.


Though the braces were off and the acne pretty much cleared up, I wasn't leading anything like the carefree teenage life I'd imagined I would. Bonnie seemed to be. I was happy for her and maybe a bit jealous.  


That was the week I met Carole, another guest at the resort. We discovered we went to the same high school and lived only a few blocks away. She was pretty, confident and friends with all the local kids who worked at the Summit. With her, everything changed. It was "American Graffiti" 15 years before the movie and the best week of my life. We are friends to this day.


That magazine and week have remained inexorably entwined. I don't think of one without remembering the other. But this is a story about the girl in those pictures. A fluke Facebook post has connected us, and she agreed to share the story of her most remarkable life. 

Bonnie Trompeter Lowe

Bonnie was growing up the eldest of two daughters in Larchmont, New York, 25 miles from New York City. She was studious, but shy, and felt awkward as she was so tall. She must have been a beautiful child but says she was never treated as special. Her parents were strict; she wasn't even allowed to date.

She was surprised when her mother suggested they visit the Conover agency in NYC to see if she had model potential. A writer and photographer from Life happened to be at the agency that day. They'd been searching nationwide for a teenage girl to feature in a picture story and had come up short. Bonnie feels sure they were just weary of looking so she was "it". I have a feeling they knew they'd found someone special.

The pair from Life moved up to Larchmont and spent a month following Bonnie everywhere, even to school. Life was the most popular magazine in the country. The Trompeters were told if there weren't a war or some other disaster that week, Bonnie would be the cover story. She was.

Life was an oversized picture weekly and used many well known photographers. The photographer given the assignment, Paul Schutzer, became noted for his work in Vietnam and died in 1967 photographing the Israeli Six-Day War. Strictly reportage, no photos in Bonnie's story were ever set up or posed. They capture a fairly typical, late 1950's suburban family. Her father was "a food store manager" as reported by Life. Her mother was a stay-at-home mom who made sure Bonnie was educated in the social graces, including both ballet and piano lessons. She urged her to "be somebody", but Bonnie was interested in being a good student and navigating junior high school life.

These photos of Bonnie, with her family and friends are so compelling you sense this lovely, still unsophisticated young woman is about to discover what we can see already: her good looks and inherent charm will take her a long way.

Although she says there wasn't much fanfare around town after publication, the story in Life became her "portfolio" and quickly got her a first modelling assignment—the cover of Seventeen for January 1959 shot by the notable Francesco Scavullo. 

First assignment, January 1959

She took to modeling naturally and though barely 14 was commuting regularly to New York City on assignments. This was a time before girls Bonnie's age were actually used to model teen fashions. With the exception of Carol Lynley and Sandra Dee, who quickly went on to acting careers, most teen models were in their early '20s at the youngest.

Bonnie convinced her parents to let her enroll in and commute to The Professional Children's School in Manhattan for high school. PCS is a college prep academy near Lincoln Center for working young professionals in the arts and show business. Among her classmates were Christopher Walken, then known as Ronnie and performing as a dancer, and actor Brandon de Wilde. He became an early boyfriend until he went off to Hollywood and met Carol Lynley on the set of "Blue Denim". Bonnie was barely in class, studying on the go as she fulfilled an ever increasing slate of work assignments.

PCS yearbook roommates

In fact, at age 14 she went off to London for the British publication Woman as well as being sent to Paris, also alone, to work for Marie Claire and Jardin des Modes. Bonnie said she was so terrified of Paris she spent the first two days in her hotel room before she had the courage to venture out.

Working girl, 1962

She finished high school in three years and enrolled as an English major at Middlebury College in Vermont. Although MGM sent her to acting school and gave her a screen test with the young James Caan, her heart wasn't in it. College was something she really wanted. You can certainly see why they were interested. In this picture from Life, Bonnie looks like a young Grace Kelly.

Grace Kelly in "The Swan"

How many pretty girls hope to become models and how many actually do?  Bonnie didn't walk the couture runway or transition into high fashion, but there has never not been a time since 1958 until she retired in 2020 that you wouldn't have seen Bonnie Trompeter somewhere. Her pretty good looks have never changed. She's instantly recognizable, first as the wholesome girl-next-door and then the lovely woman-next-door.Bonnie worked during college as well, traveling by bus to New York City or going off to assignments in Europe. It was, as can be imagined, not easy, and she left Middlebury after two years. While there she briefly dated a young man named Norm Lowe (remember that name).

A too young Bonnie for this ad

She was, though, swept off her feet by a young man she had met at a party. She was impressed by what she thought was a glamorous lifestyle as well as the two dozen red roses he brought to the hospital when she had her wisdom teeth removed. At the tender age of 19 she married Chuck Miller in a wedding also reported and photographed by Life magazine. Bonnie doesn't remember how the second Life story came about, but the photographer was Henri Dauman (remember that name also).


The couple lived in New York City, but the glamorous lifestyle was a myth. Bonnie continued her modeling career and gave birth to daughter Christa in 1964. By Christa's first birthday the marriage was over. Mother and daughter sometimes worked together—see Ivory Snow ad below—but it was thought Christa didn't look enough like Bonnie to be her daughter! Not only did Christa continue to have her own modeling career, she is the actress Christa Miller you probably know from many tv series— "The Drew Carey Show", "Scrubs", "Cougar Town", even "Seinfeld".

Mother and daughter
Christa Miller

Bonnie married a second time to a doctor, ten years older. They were together fifteen years and had a son, but her husband was a controlling alcoholic who insisted she keep working yet co-opted her income. And there was real tragedy: their 15-month-old baby girl was killed in a freak car mishap in their driveway.

Left to to support herself and her family after the divorce, Bonnie credits the catalog companies—Montgomery Ward, JC Penney and Spiegel— for keeping her in steady employ. She also helped herself by helping others and became an alcohol addiction rehabilitation counselor for 12 years at the Freedom Institute. 

Not here but Bonnie often was there

A brief third marriage to a photographer was also not a success.

As I talked to Bonnie the word "luck" kept coming up. But I couldn't help marvel at her resilience and ability to reflect with such clarity and understanding. She credits studies with inspirational Episcopalian monk and therapist Stephen Paul for spiritual healing and guidance and yoga master Rodney Lee for her interest and following of yoga. It's a tribute to a graceful and forgiving nature that she's accepted, learned and grown throughout her life.

Still modeling in 2008

Here comes perhaps the happy ending or, better, the happy new beginning. Urged by a friend to attend their 25th college reunion at Middlebury, she balked at going because she had never graduated. But she went, as did Norm Lowe, the boy she "didn't appreciate at the time." They reconnected, as only former sweethearts can. He divorced, and they married in 1993.

Bonnie and Norm in 2021

Norm retired from sales in the semi-conductor industry in 2004. The couple have bi-coastal families with 9 grandchildren between them. Although they've lived in Sherman, CT, and all three of the Hamptons on Long Island, home is now a restored 1840's house in Camden, Maine. Another later-in-life discovery is a talent for watercolors that she never thought she had. Certain she "couldn't even draw a stick figure", she took classes anyways. She's a lovely painter. 

Bonnie's bunny

I think we all wonder about a model's personal style. Bonnie describes hers as preppy, favoring J Crew jeans with a polo or button-down. If Ralph Lauren is reading this, he needs to cast Bonnie in one of his iconic "Americana" ads as she so embodies the rangy, All-American woman he likes to dress. Like many of us these days she prefers to have arms and legs covered, though she'll be more "local" on holiday in Spain where women often prefer dresses. 

And who can resist asking a model for her beauty secrets? Bonnie's are deceptively simple. She's never even had a facial, but if she doesn't wear a bit of eyeliner and mascara she feels she looks half asleep. She's always had highlights in her hair but now has gone all-natural. Although she's always exercised, Bonnie discovered Pilates three years ago and swears by it. "It's changed everything, even the way I walk." And Bonnie and Norm enjoy Pilates and painting together.

Bonnie's granddaughter Charlotte Lawrence (Christa's daughter) deserves a mention as she is not only carrying on the modeling tradition, she is a noted young singer-songwriter and proof that there really is something to heredity.



Remember that photographer Henri Dauman? On a trip to Paris in 2015 they unexpectedly came across a retrospective of his work at the Palais d’Iéna. A pix from that wedding shoot for Life was in very good company.


When I interviewed Bonnie she was about to fly to Europe, where she and Norm would be spending much of the summer at their home in Spain, very far from where I first met her in Uniontown, Pennsylvania.