There are many reasons to shop Vintage aka Pre-loved aka Thrifted. It's always been right for:
> Those who love the thrill of the hunt
> Those who appreciate the styles/construction/fabrics of the past
> Those who love to snag a bargain or a "find"
> Those who pursue a unique style all their own
Shopping Vintage has other benefits as well, not the least of which are:
> To counter over population in your closet due to the rise of fast-fashion shopping and its highly disposable garments. Besides, too much choice can be paralyzing.
> To save the world from what to do with all that unwanted donated apparel
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| A sobering dead end |
> To fight the rising cost of clothing, which, especially with the uncertainty of tariffs, is likely to continue
> As part of the decision to buy nothing. It doesn't seem as wrong to give a new home to something as opposed to encouraging fast fashion to get even faster.
> Realizing you really don't need anything but as an inveterate shopper do need to scratch that itch. It's both the thrill of the hunt AND unearthing the treasure.
Jane Fonda, at age 83 was quoted as saying she wasn't going to buy any more clothing. She said she was still wearing clothes she bought 30 years ago in multiples because her then-husband Ted Turner had many residences. She's 87 now; I wonder if she's kept that promise.
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| Jane Fonda has all she needs |
Vintage is a term that has loose definitions. An antique piece of furniture, for instance, needs to be 100 years old to be considered antique. "Vintage" denotes anything more than 20 but less than 100 years old. "Retro" fills the gap at less than 20 years.
You can see for yourself how those don't necessarily apply to clothing. Retro can be a designer's term for bringing back the '70s while a consignment store will call the original piece Vintage. Wearable clothing never seems to be labeled Antique either. Great Grandma's Edwardian wedding dress, over 100 years old, is still Vintage.
To further confuse things, "Vintage" has become the acceptable term for anything pre-worn (or "pre-loved") as opposed to being called "used" or "second-hand". Goodwill and the Salvation Army don't bother with these distinctions, but shopping them is usually to look for something Vintage—better in quality than the usual.
For the sake of convenience I'll just be calling all this stuff vintage.
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Personally I've only tip-toed into vintage shopping. Here in Houston there are dozens of re-sale shops where the
Young & Restless can drop off or exchange their (mostly fast)
fashions for cash or more of the same. My favorite among them did
have a client just my size with a Marc Jacobs obsession, but she seems
to have moved on (as has he). More and more these kinds of places are
bringing in new, cheap stuff to add to the old cheap stuff. So buyer
beware. There are a very few quality vintage shops, but they tend to
feature old St.John knits and massively sequined, heavily shouldered party
dresses.
So I am going to defer to my very experienced friend, Diane O. She has the advantage of living in New York City. Not only are there women galore who love fashion, New Yorkers have notoriously small closets. Thus the constant trek to unload and repurchase. Through trial and error Diane has figured out what works for her and along the way has compiled a hefty roster of tips how to play—and win—at vintage shopping.
AllWays in Fashion: How did you get started vintage shopping?
Diane O: I noticed that more and more vintage and secondhand stores were opening near me, and I was curious! After a while (and a lot of bad choices), I started to learn how to identify a keeper. I haven't sprung for high-end, three-figure vintage, but you can stay under that and find some real treasures.
AWIF: What were some of your best buys?
DO: The Issey Miyake crinkled turtleneck in a beautiful clear blue, which is timeless. The '70s men's fitted shirt in a print I think of as "disco Christmas"—the ideal holiday party shirt. The Liberty print I had tailored to fit. And my favorite before/after: the patterned ski sweater with two buttons missing and a mismatched one hanging by a thread (I replaced the whole set with new metal buttons).
AWIF: And the worst?
D.O: Probably pants. They're hard to fit under any circumstances, and if you find them in a secondhand store, they may be dated-looking. Some, I've found out the hard way, are beyond alterations. If you have to basically re-cut a pant, it's not worth it.
AWIF: What are you always looking for?
D.O: An interesting top.
AWIF: What will you never buy?
D.O: Shoes. A little too much personal contact for me!
AWIF: How do you style a vintage piece with what you already own?
D.O: Let the piece be the standout—if it's very distinctive, don't wear anything that competes with it. And if it's clearly an old style like my disco shirt, keep the rest of your outfit modern. Head-to-toes '70s looks like you're going to a theme party, and you never want to be that literal.
AWIF: What else would you like the world to know:
D.O: Not every trip will be productive; most aren't. But they do train your eye. Once you find stores you like and learn to be selective, you'll go home with more winners.
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| D.O in "Disco Christmas" |
A little caution goes a long way, and Diane O. has also identified some things to watch out for when shopping for vintage:
> Don't succumb to nostalgia for "when clothes were good".
> Don't be seduced by a label or beautiful fabric. That won't matter if it doesn't fit or you don't need it.
> Be wary of styles that don't really pair well with modern clothes. "We've moved on and you risk looking clueless".
> Run, don't walk away, from anything that reminds you of something you once loved. "Your body has changed, a lot of that stuff was too prissy; some things are actually better/easier in current versions, like pants with Lycra".
> Say no to a one-off that might be a gem but will go with nothing you own. The idea is not to then have to go shopping for something to make it work!
> Be wary of the "feeling that you have to go home with something to reward yourself for the effort of searching." Instead, buy yourself a bouquet of flowers or stop in a lovely coffee shop for a treat or pick up that new best-seller.
> Don't let the price overtake you. "You can't go wrong? Yes, you can".
> If you have to justify the purchase with an explanation of its backstory or where you found it, think again. "Your outfit shouldn't need a caption".
> If you know it "probably won't work, but you're going to make it work, dammit", just calm down. "No tailor is that good".
> Since we all learn by our mistakes, you're going to make some and get wiser. But never let any mistake hang in the closet to taunt you.
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We
both agree that "the more attractive the shop the more pleasant the
experience". Neither one of us will shovel through massive piles, and we
are both discouraged by finding too many lemons. The nicer things are
displayed, the more one feels they are in a "real shop", and the more
inclined we are to spend time there.
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| Su'juk (top) and City Opera Thrift, two NYC faves |
