Fine and Dandy

Janelle Monae disguised as a suit for the Met Gala

"Superfine: Tailoring Black Style" is the latest excuse for holding a Met Gala. If that seems a bit harsh I will admit to wondering if that affair is Fashion or Entertainment. The intent of the exhibit itself is to interpret "the concept of dandyism as both an aesthetic and a strategy that allowed for new social and political possibilities" in the Black community. Those are big words for a term that historically had a different definition. I'm thinking the "dandy" as referring to a male figure of fashion is different from the "dandy" the Met is showcasing.

So what is a dandy? From the late 18th into the 19th century a dandy was a man meticulously concerned, top to bottom, with his appearance and adherence to the latest fashions and styles. Being white, wealthy and male were prerequisites. This dandy didn't just "dress up" for the public; he wouldn't be caught, dead or otherwise, not looking splendiferous. Examples: Beau Brummel (the first dandy of note), Oscar Wilde, Lord Byron. 

Brummel, Byron, Wilde

In the 20th century the author Tom Wolfe took great pride in being a dandy. By then the look was anachronistic. Wolfe would choose items such as spats, a fedora or a cane that were long out of popular fashion. Wholehearted dandies like him are few.

Brummel, Byron, Wilde, Wolfe

The Met has woven together what looks like a gangbusters of a show of American Black fashion from the 19th century to today in a concept of twelve themes and featuring hundreds of garments, accessories, paintings, drawings and videos. This is the first Met Costume Institute show devoted entirely to men.

I love the example of this livery coat and waistcoat from 1840s. It was worn by an enslaved man on a Southern plantation and shows his owner's preoccupation with an ostentatious, dated form of displaying wealth. It pains me to think how humiliated the wearer must have felt. This would not have been his choice but his master's.

Dressing the part

In stark contrast are photographs of Frederic Douglas, the great orator, statesman and aboltionist. He knew how to get his point across. As one of the most photographed men of the 19th century he was aware how he looked and what he wore would be scrutinized. But did using the power of dress to influence make him a dandy? 

Frederick Douglass

The spirit of the late Andre Leon Talley permeates the galleries. Talley, close to Vogue editor Anna Wintour, was the magazine's fashion news director then creative director from 1983 to 1995. He was so much more—a figure of prominence from the disco days of the '70s until his death in 2022. He could surely be called a dandy in his youth. He developed the unique style of his later years as a solution for various weight and health problems. 

Talley, always unique

Although its official title is a mouthful and a bit vague, calling it about black dandies would be wrong. What and how you wear it signals loud and clear your hopes, dreams, aspirations and rebellions. Despite my dithering about definitions, the whole show sounds impressive, thought provoking and a must-see.

"Superfine: Tailoring Black Style" will be up at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art through October 26.