Saturday, August 29, 2020

Madame Wishes She Knew

About this time of year I try to predict the new fall trends based on what I read in the fashion press, what I see coming into the stores, and my gut feelings. I dusted off the crystal ball and find the future cloudy.

Much has been written lately about the direction of fashion, and not just the clothes themselves. What will become of magazines? Where will we get our fashion news and fantasies if they disappear? What will the pandemic and the economy do to retail? Madame wishes she saw the answers in her crystal ball. I'd make a fortune and feel less stressed.

We've seen fashion brands closing eponymous boutiques (Diane Von Furstenburg), brand-centric retail declaring bankruptcy or in trouble (J Crew, the GAP), department stores calling it quits or gasping for breath, magazines so skinny they prove there is such a thing as too thin. Meanwhile online commerce is becomes easier and smarter while not necessarily more satisfying.

F A S H I O N   M A G A Z I N E S

Will there be more trees?

In the late 18th century engraved illustrated broadsheets of what the nobs wore were published for French social climbers. Collected or bound together, they became the first fashion magazines. For a long time fashion was considered part of a cultured life. Fashion news appeared in literary and "women's interest" magazines. The stand-alone fashion magazine is a 20th century invention, with heavy credit due Condé Nast (a person before the name meant a publishing empire). 

Because they've existed so long, we took magazines for granted. These past few years have seen declining interest in periodicals of all kinds. It shouldn't be a surprise that fashion magazines are included. News moves at the speed of light, not the rhythmic hum of a printing press. Print's transition to who-knows-what was surely accelerated by the pandemic and economic down turn.

>>>>> Will tomorrow's fashion magazines be artsy, high priced books, beautifully photographed and printed for the few who can afford them? As magazines will they transform back to an emphasis on culture and less on fashion? We've seen that already since Covid. I'm waiting for the September issues in a way I never have before—with trepidation.

R E T A I L

Will bags become extinct?

It's been over five months since I stepped into a store that doesn't sell produce. All my "shopping" has been online, with about a 50% success rate. I've been a cautious shopper, for the most part buying from brands whose sizing I understand.

I applaud Zara, who've been doing online for a while and have mastered the process, including returns. Amazon does not have a universal return policy as their suppliers include third party vendors. Read the small print before you order anywhere. If you've been stung by restocking fees you probably do. In general customer service for online sights is good, if you can get through. They all need to work on that.

Online shopping is cut and dry. Look, decide, hope for the best, and wait. I think anticipation is online shopping's greatest strength. Rather than a deterrent, waiting is almost an added bonus, like waiting for Christmas. Of course, that can easily turn into April Fool's Day when the bubble gets burst among a pile of wrappings and cardboard.

>>>>> Until the pandemic hit we were programmed for instant gratification. Go to a store, see it, try it, buy it. Has the pandemic made us slow down and consider? Would we be happy, say, to go to a store, see something, try on a sample, and wait for delivery?

The first fall fashion issue arrived today with the cover lines: "The time is now. Nothing is certain. Change is here. Fearless fashion for a new reality."

Whatever happens we must be brave.

   

 


3 comments:

  1. It certainly is a turbulent time for the fashion industry, but I'm loving the creative fashion styling I've been seeing reported on as well as being created for and on the pages being posted by many fashion and style bloggers around the world. Some of it is truly gorgeous.
    Certainly there will always be fashion, and whatever your crystal ball shows will be fascinating to see.
    P.S.: I'm still seeing a variety of high end / luxury fashions on sites carrying designer haute couture as well.
    Best wishes for a fashiontastic autumn and year 2021. xx

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  2. I’m very late to this as I read it, but had no clue where we are going. Note-only read Vogue and Vanity Fair cover to cover. It seems like the disconnect is bigger than ever between fashion fantasy and real life with so many of us in pj’s lately, but we will emerge eventually.
    For me responsible and sustainable fashion is important. Like paying adults a living wage to make garments and planet friendly fabrics and manufacturing. And buying better quality and fewer items is also a goal. These seem like middle class platitudes when so many are struggling though.
    But art uplifts us and fashion can certainly be art. You raise good points and questions and I appreciate the discussion.

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    1. Thank you for reading and your thoughtful reply. Yes, the disconnect between fantasy and real life in fashion has never been greater. It will be interesting to see how they manage to co-exist.

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