Monday, April 29, 2024

Stylish Read: "Double Click"


If you're old enough to remember the Doublemint Twins campaign for Wrigley's gum, the title "Double Click" makes perfect sense. Twin sisters Frances and Kathryn McLaughlin were born in 1919, grew up adorable, photogenic and attached at the hip. Exceptionally smart, they both gravitated to art, then photography and married photographers. Each had successful, separate photographic careers and were still close (but less attached at the hip) throughout their lives.

Franny and Fuffy (Kathryn)
or is it Fuffy and Franny?

 
So how could this possibly fill 405 pages, including 46 pages of end notes, a 20-page index and 12-page "cast of characters"? Read that first, by the way, as therein lies the heart of the story. The author, Carol Kino, realized that her twin subjects were at the very center of New York fashion and magazine publishing in the 1940s and '50s. The people in their lives included the well known (Carmel Snow, Alexander Liberman) as well as the lesser known (Toni Frissell, Margaret Hockaday) and a whole bunch more. They all get their own profiles as the story of the twins unfolds.

Franny and Kathryn (for sure)

As a student of all things fashion history, I was enthralled, but less so by the twins themselves. For much of the book they seemed to enjoy a good time and having fun, albeit in chaste ways appropriate to the era. They weren't interviewed for this book as both died in 2014 at 94 and 95. Frances lived the longest.

How could they not come off a bit entitled? Fuffy and Franny (the names they went by) were gifted with good looks and intelligence. Although they claimed to have worked hard, which they no doubt did, the novelty of being twins surely must have given them two feet in the door.

Full disclosure: I knew Frances McLaughlin-Gill. She often had assignments from Glamour when I was starting out (1965) and worked for Glamour until the later part of the '60s. She was a welcome visitor in the art department, where everyone called her "Franny" and seemed to have known her for years, which they did. 

Franny shooting for Glamour in the '50s

In 1946 Frances was the first woman hired as a staff photographer in the Conde Nast photo studio. Although the studio closed in 1954, she was still working freelance for Glamour. By the time I met her, she was doing the smaller shoots around town and studio work but never sent on the big trips. Those were often shot by the Europeans Alexander Liberman was "trying out" at Glamour before moving up to Vogue or by a stable of New Yorkers, all men (especially Bill Connors and Sante Forlano). Franny was dependable and uber-professional. Her work would be exactly what the assignment called for. No drama.

I remember her as a nice looking woman in her 'mid 40s, She wore little makeup and had a simple hairstyle. I recall her wearing a plain shirt and skirt or a chino raincoat. Of course I never called her Franny; she was "Mrs. Gill" to me and was always very pleasant to this newbie learning the ropes. I had no idea she had a twin. Kathryn (Abbe) was also well known both as a fashion photographer and candid photographer of children. 

A very young Carmen by Franny
 
If I was somewhat disappointed that I never felt I knew the two McLaughlins, "Double Click" was rewarding in many other ways, from the little known history of College Boards and junior magazines to the host of amazing talents and personalities that were part of their lives.

I arrived in New York City at the tail end of this era, but Kino's cast of characters were still important, and their goings-on were still office fodder. I learned who all the players were and some delicious gossip to boot. Reading "Double Click" filled in the gaps and polished the gems. It was fun.

She plays a role in the story.


 

 


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