Who Cut Out the Dress?

 
Will "Making the Cut" make the cut? "Project Runway" was a trailblazer when it debuted on Bravo in 2004. There have been many "seasons" and many iterations, most recently with Karli Kloss and Christian Siriano as host and mentor respectively.

Yesterday the originals, Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn, debuted "Making the Cut" on Amazon Prime, a glammed-up version of the original with a million dollar prize and 12 contestants who have established lines but want Worldwide Brand Recognition.

It all seems a bit desperate, with Heidi barely able to contain herself at the thought of that million and Tim having apoplexy over being in Paris (and using the word titillating in not exactly the right way). The big get is the viewer's ability to purchase the winning designer's look immediately after the show.

This was tried once before on one of the other "Runways" with not much success. The winning look was able to be ordered right after the show, with a wait time of 6-8 weeks for delivery. In other words, "slow fashion." No one wants to wait two months for anything unless it's your wedding gown, so it was no surprise that disappeared early on in the run of the season.

Back to "Making the Cut". The designers were challenged to create two looks for a fashion show—a runway, or extreme, version of their style and an aspirational, or saleable, one. The presentation was staged at night at the Eiffel Tower. That was such a small part of the episode you barely had a chance to look at the clothes.

Instead of judges examining their favorites and least favorites (so at least we could see them again), Heidi separately called four contestants to the judge's table to be grilled by her and have their fates decided by the panel. "Did you change your minds?", she asked the judges after her inquisition. Everyone always said "no". I'm surprised they didn't use the old gladiatorial thumbs-up, thumbs-down. One designer was sent home, one given a warning, one praised for her good work, one  crowned the winner (but no laurel leaves).

The winner, Esther Perbandt from Germany, found the seamstress hadn't put her dress together correctly. That's another thing; designers don't actually sew because most of them use pattern makers and seamstresses in their businesses (yet another reason to unleash a horde of completely untrained fashion designers onto the world). She was forced to create a new dress in the two hours left, and this was the winner.

Actually it's a nice dress. I could see this going to a party or out to a special dinner. It looks a bit Grecian or Empire, flattering and dramatic. I was curious enough to go on the Amazon website, where I understood it would be available immediately.

 
I could see if I were watching a few days or weeks following the program's debut. It wasn't even midnight, and Amazon's site told me this:

 
What was the point? Did they not anticipate the volume of orders (which I kind of doubt there were)? Did they run into a coronavirus problem importing from China? Possible. There was no price listed, but a bit of further investigation revealed it was $64.90. I've had enough bad luck ordering from those Chinese fashion sites to imagine the quality of the fabric/how well this is made for that price. I also wonder if any designer hoping to become the next global brand was thinking "Forever 21" rather than "Armani."

So I'm on the fence about this version. Or maybe the clothesline—hanging on, but I don't know for how long.

Men We Love: Christian Siriano

 
You don't need a reason to love Christian Siriano. He's been nothing but a class act since his debut as a contestant on "Project Runway" in 2008.

My first thoughts were, Who does this pipsqueak think he is? Chistian had attitude and at 5'4" and probably 110 pounds soaking wet he sure needed to put his talent where his confidence was. Well, he did, and became the youngest Project Runway winner with his beautiful, imaginative creations.

But could he make it as a real fashion designer? Not surprisingly his first forays into commercial design were for mass market retailers, such as a line of shoes and handbags for the late, lamented Payless. But he debuted his own line late in 2008, sold at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neimans as well as a private couture line. He's every bit an established designer today—successful and respected, a member of the CFDA, a published author and basically king of all that he surveys. And in a sweet case of turnabout, he was the mentor of this year's Project Runway reboot, replacing his own mentor, Tim Gunn.

Throughout he has been funny and confident, kind and helpful, living up to one of his favorite catchwords, fierce. All that would be fine and good enough, except Christian has done a few things that make him really special.

Christian and Leslie in the studio

One that comes to mind is his request to dress Leslie Jones for the premiere of her movie "Ghostbusters." He heard no one she asked would make her a red carpet gown. That might have seemed like a tempest in a teapot but brought to light what women face who are not an "acceptable" size in the big business of dress-up.

When asked why he wanted to do it Christian said, "We should just try to make every woman feel great about themselves, because there’s enough crazy hate going on in the world." The dress was gorgeous, and he and Leslie have forged a friendship that continues to spread his philosophy.

Leslie's Siriano gown

 
Okay, so Christian Siriano is a mench. He lives up to his own hype and seems genuinely caring. But what has he done lately? Well, this. When he found out New York City was perilously low on the supply of masks, he tweeted,  "If @NYGovCuomo says we need masks my team will help make some. I have a full sewing team still on staff working from home that can help."

And that's what he's been doing, sewing 500 a day both in his studio (with social distancing) and by workers at home. They are simple and follow mask guidelines, washable, no funky fabric designs or Christian Siriano logos. He is doing good not only for NYC, but he's keeping his staff employed.

A stitch in time. Thank you, Christian Siriano.

Will We Ever Want to Shop Again?

 
The reason for this blog's beginnings in 2011 and my writing today is the same. Then I was confined to the house while recovering from bunion surgery. I challenged myself to publish something every day till I could fly the coop and rejoin the world.

Eight years later my reason is once again a challenge to keep occupied while waiting for that day when life will be normal. Date TBD, that life TBD.

There's a problem. 643 posts later what more can I possibly say about fashion? You've read my life story from playing with paper dolls to working for magazines. You've seen my dispatches on the business of fashion, quirky discoveries about styles and practices, musings on the latest trends.

What more is there to say, especially when the last thing I'm thinking about is what to wear?

Pajamas as street wear is one thing. Pajamas as all-day wear is something else. I don't want to start down that slippery slope. (short break while I get dressed)

Will we ever shop again? My first thought, as I stayed home and saw mine and other retail businesses close their literal doors for the duration, was "everyone will shop online". That could be a further blow to those doors reopening again.

Now, aside from needing something (t-shirts, socks, underwear, pajamas), what do I want to shop for?  Where am I going? What do I have to look forward to—that is, what can I count on happening on a certain date? I have, in other words, lost my appetite for Fashion as an important part of everyday life. It's kind of like losing a friend if not an actual body part.

At the moment we are in a coronavirusworld without end. I appreciate that not every writer is flailing about like me or even attempting to see the bright side to our new and hopefully temporary reality. Sometimes a little breathing space is a good thing. In order to breathe.

Our lives may have changed overnight. We may have much more important things to stress about at the moment than high-water or lo-rise, but we are still female and still ourselves. 

Madame has made many predictions in the past. I've usually tossed them off without much thought to their becoming true. This time it's a prediction and a fervent wish: We will shop again.  



 

Stuff to Do During House Arrest #1

 
There are more fashion-related activities to keep you occupied during house arrested besides closet cleaning and mending. More fun things for sure.

I just read a piece on "100 things to do while stuck inside during a pandemic" in USA Today. You can copy and paste here: 

https://www.yahoo.com/news/100-things-while-stuck-inside-110017710.html

Number one is "Complete a puzzle! The more pieces the better!" I haven't done a jigsaw puzzle in 20 years, but I always add at least a piece to the one laid out on top of a case at the library. Actually the more dense and complicated a puzzle is, the easier it is to put together. There is nothing worse in puzzledom than a jigsaw with lots of blue sky.

So for your puzzle (and fashion) pleasure, let me present The Clothing Emporium by the Vermont Christmas Company:

That looks like the store of my dreams or the closet of my nightmare, but it sure looks like fun. It's 550 pieces and measures 24" x 18" when completed. Available on Amazon for $14.95.

I asked my husband if he'd like to do a puzzle. He said yes, but it's going to be this one:

I know, I know. Too much blue sky.

What to Wear During House Arrest

 
For the next two to three weeks, under the advice of our doctor, my husband and I will be under house arrest, sitting out the coronavirus until it's not so scary. At 79 and 77 respectively, we are willing to own up to "old", just not "elderly". We still work, travel, play and generally enjoy life without thinking too much about our health. That the CDC considers 65 "old" was a wake-up call.

I look forward to house arrest with more than a little trepidation. I'm still not sure whether we are being overly cautious. Remember the story of Chicken Little who thought the sky was falling? On the other hand, being a little chicken now might not be a bad idea.

We plan to cut out anything that involves other people, which means a lot of things we enjoy doing—restaurants, movies, theater, museums, shopping (that's only my pleasure), seeing the kids and work. We will make only the quickest trips to the grocery store and any other appointments that can't be put off. All this togetherness will be a true test of our marriage. We will try not to kill each other.

But what to wear? To avoid that slippery slope—from casual to can't care less—I will have to get dressed. With makeup. Every day. I admit to spending long mornings in pjs when I have a day off and my husband doesn't. Since every day will now be a day off, I'd better be more like my mother—breakfast in pjs (though she always wore a pretty robe) then get dressed for the day. Note to self: As soon as I can get to a store, look for a pretty robe. Better yet, find one on Amazon.

Maybe matching robes...?

When I'm spending the day cleaning—a chore I hate until it's done, and then I'm ridiculously proud of myself—I wear the oldest, saddest articles of clothing I own. I don't even give them the respect of hanging in a closet. I somewhat fold them and toss 'em into a covered basket in the bedroom. They are so disgusting if I ever did get rid of them I wouldn't have the nerve to drop them at the thrift shop. This cannot be my house arrest wardrobe. I am going to have to wear real clothes.

NOT my house cleaning outfit...or attitude

The temptation when no one sees you is to reach for the same outfit day after day till it can practically walk itself to the laundry basket. I once bought a rainbow striped knit top to keep up my spirits after I lost a job. I did wear it for a while, until I realized it did nothing but remind me of my sorry state. So a house arrest outfit might be too much orange-is-the-new-black.

I think all of us have clothes we don't wear for no other reason than they seem too good for the house but not good enough to wear out. At least I do. Now's the time to put on those nice shirts or t's and fun pants.

I take out my pierced earrings at night and don't put them back in until I'm ready to leave home. Empty ear piercings is one of Rachel Zoe's pet peeves from her style book. I will put earrings in even though going nowhere.

Though not exactly what-to-wear, wouldn't it be great to finally catch up on all that mending—hems and buttons that need work? And what a perfect opportunity to switch closets for the season (am writing this from south Texas), a chore that can take weeks when I'm busy going places and doing things.

Thus has it ever been...

And when I'm done with my closet, I'll start on my husband's. Now that's when the murder plots may hatch...

Stylish Read: "The Man Who Was Vogue"

You will need to check your library for this, although used copies are available on Amazon. "The Man Who was Vogue: The Life and Times of Conde´ Nast"  by Caroline Seebohm was published in 1982. I was then working for Conde´ Nast Publications and don't remember even a glimmer of excitement for a biography on the founding father. For a long time I assumed Conde´ Nast was a publishing partnership like Harper Collins, not one person.

How interesting could a biography of this little known man, famous for wearing a pince-nez but not a smile, really be? Turns out, very interesting indeed.

A magazine publisher is much like a movie producer—responsible for suggesting or green lighting the project, for staff, budgets, quality control, promotion and advertising. The publisher has to have a vision, be inspiring and open to ideas—a nice blend of ringmaster, father figure, best friend and dictator. Not easy.

Born in New York City in 1873, Conde´ was not a blue blood by any means; his parents were originally from Missouri. That noble-sounding name belonged to a distant relative with French origins. He attended Georgetown University thanks to a generous aunt and reluctantly earned a law degree. The father of a college friend owned the struggling Collier's Weekly magazine, and Conde´ joined up, increasing its circulation a hundred fold by his keen grasp of advertising and promotion, two things magazines thrive on.

A 1909 issue of "Vogue"

Vogue was founded in 1892, aimed at the New York upper class. Nast bought it in 1909 and managed to keep its society readers, adding along the way everyone else who wanted to read about them.

By the way, Conde´ Nast Publications has given us an incredible gift. You may browse every issue of Vogue at no charge by going here: https://archive.vogue.com/covertocover

Surprisingly, dress patterns may have been responsible for Conde´ Nast's early success. Vogue had always featured a pattern in each issue. As French fashion was the most desirable, these patterns gave madam's seamstress the ability to replicate the latest Paris styles. Conde´ successfully expanded the Vogue Pattern company in 1914 to sell patterns in stores, and the company is still going strong.

Hollywood Patterns were launched in 1932 to take advantage of the growing interest in movie stars and home sewing during the depression. Glamour of Hollywood magazine began in 1939, dropping the "of Hollywood" not long after. Conde´ Nast died in 1942 and didn't live to see Glamour become Conde´ Nast Publications' cash cow, as it was when I worked there in the ‘60s, ‘70s and ‘80s.

A Hollywood pattern and promotion

Nast was the first publisher to concentrate only on what he called "class" publications. This is different from "classy", although Vogue and Vanity Fair are certainly that. A Conde´ Nast magazine is deliberately aimed at a certain class of reader interested in a particular subject as opposed to one with mass or broad appeal.

The glory days of magazines may be gone and Conde´ Nast's holdings have whittled down considerably, but the name still has power. The house that Conde´ built is now at One World Trade Center and consists of nine print publications (Vogue, New Yorker, GQ, Vanity Fair, Allure, Architectural Digest, Traveler, Wired, Bon Appetit) and a smattering of digital titles. In addition there are 23 international editions of Vogue. Among much loved and lost titles were House & Garden, Mademoiselle, and Details.

Conde´ Nast  NYC headquarters

Vogue has always been the flagship of the fleet. While Conde´ Nast may have been conflicted by Victorian principles in his personal life, he was firmly on the side of the 20th century zeitgist , championing progressive trends in the arts, music, fashion, and interiors.

Parties at his thirty-room duplex/penthouse at 1040 Park Avenue were legendary—and strictly business. He could often be spotted looking on rather uncomfortably from the sidelines.

One of Conde's greatest gifts was the ability to spot talent, and he brought on the most progressive artists, photographers, graphic designers, writers and editors. The original Vanity Fair (1913-36) was a personal favorite and is still revered for its cutting edge everything.

There were so many characters in "The Man Who Was Vogue", I found myself Googling often. That added more to the enjoyment of reading as now famous names like Steichen and Eric, Dr. Agha and Baron de Meyer took shape and character.  

A Baron de Meyer photograph

Illustration by Carl Erickson ("Eric")

Conde´ Nast intrigued Susan Ronald enough to write "Conde´ Nast—The Man and His Empire", published in 2019. That one had the cooperation of Conde´ Nast Publications and the Nast family. Conde´ was a genius but not a perfect man. Could all that cooperation signal a red flag?