Sunday, February 28, 2021

Tiers Without Tears

Words mean everything. That would be "tears" as in an ocular emotional release, not "tears" as in  damaged fabric. 

Working as a layout designer for "Glamour" magazine, I was startled by a headline for a new column on home sewing: "Be a Better Sewer". It looked too much like a column for DYI plumbers hoping to improve waste drainage. The column was changed to "How to Sew Better". 

The English language is not easy, and either is fashion. Sometimes it has a life of its own, and I would say the trend for ruffles, prints and tiers is coming at us with gusto. Fashion has nine lives too, and this is at least the third go-round for tiers in my lifetime.

It all started last summer. While I was searching the internet for a caftan to loll around my pandemic-friendly 500-square-foot backyard, trendsetters had rediscovered the 1970s baby doll and christened it the Nap Dress. I laughed as I simultaneously kicked myself for giving away all those Laura Ashleys. Who would wear that? I thought. Certainly not I, today, when I would look less like an Austen heroine and more like my grandma.

The 2020 Nap Dress

The house dress

Something about the look—soft, feminine, flowy, comfortable, sweet—appeals to us in terms of rebirth and a fresh start. It's surely a damn sight better than more sweats, especially summer sweats. As a woman of a certain age* tiers, ruffles, flounces and flowers require some serious discipline. You can pull it off. At least I am going to try.

Madame suggests the following (I am madame if you didn't guess):

> Keep the patterns simple. Opt for geometrics over florals, but if you go floral, go big and not ditsy.

Floral "do"

Floral "don't"

> Solid colors are more sophisticated and odd-ball hues even more so.

But not the boots...
Better with slip-ons
Perfection!

> Put yourself out there. Let's face it; this look is a costume. If you are going to do it, don't be shy. Accessorize with earrings, strappy sandals, even a belt if you feel so inclined. Whatever you choose to wear, the idea is to wear it like you own it. Because you do.


Ulla Johnson should be very happy this year. She is one designer who has long embraced flounces and tiers in her work, and she creates some of the best. Dresses sell between $400 - 600. Expect to see many ripoffs. One caveat: these frocks demand a lot of fabric, and fabric doesn't come cheap.

This tiered look was such a favorite in Derek Lam's 2008 collection, I made a mental note and snapped up the McCall's pattern when I saw it the next year. It sat, however, unseen and unsewn, for these past 11 years.  Maybe it's time.

* Honestly I can't think of a better way to describe a grown woman who is no spring chicken yet hardly the old grey mare. All suggestions greatly appreciated.






Monday, February 8, 2021

Sitting This One Out

 
You know you have reached a point in your fashionable life when you can say, "This trend's not for me." Is it grown-up or fed-up? I can't decide. 

Lately there have been a few more wacky trends than usual—the puffy sleeves and sister-wife collars immediately come to mind. I think I know why this is happening. These crazy ideas may just be fashion's answer to the nightmare when you wake up hysterical and someone throws a pail of cold water on you. Got your attention, didn't it?

The longer we are in the terrible, very bad year that is still Covid, the less I see the point of fashion. As we know, fashion and clothes are two different things. We still need clothes.

Once upon a time in fashion trends did not have such a bad rap. "Trend forecasting" meant that invariably what showed up in the crystal ball would make it to our backs or on our feet. A trend was the next fashion, and woe to the woman who ignored the trend.

Trends took on another life when a new fashion evolved from the wearers themselves. I am thinking of Narciso Rodriguez' slip dress wedding gown for Caroline Bessette Kennedy. Yes, he designed it, but it was her status as a celebrity and fashion icon that suddenly revolutionized the bridal wear industry.

We are now at Act Three. Trends seem to be manufactured by designers in hopes we will fall for the implied "be there or be square". We're not buying it, literally. We've all been burned before. 

Like I said, I'm not sure whether I'm finally mature enough or strong enough or just lazy enough not to embrace every trend, whether it looks good on me or not. Do I finally realize trend and fashion are not one and the same, that adopting the first does not lead to being in the second? What about style? Isn't that really the endgame after all?

All this popped into my head with the news that Simone Rocha will be unveiling a collaboration with H&M in March. British Vogue showed a sneak preview, and I thought here we go again. I will most definitely be sitting this one out.

Simone Rocha for H&M