Having a Moment: Polka Dots

As far as I'm concerned polka dots are always in style; they're just not always in fashion. We do seem to be having a polka dot moment. When Marc Jabobs and Donna Karan anoint them and (pun alert) they're spotted on catwalks, polka dots can morph from classic to trendy, again.

The history of polka dots is brief. Originating in England, they first appeared called as such in 1854. Methinks polka dots are a result of the Industrial Revolution. How else to adequately reproduce what Leonardo Da Vinci declared was the hardest object to draw— a perfect circle? Although named in honor of the dance, it's not likely polka dots refer to the swirling patterns of the dancers. The polka was the Macarena of its day, and many items were deemed polkalicious.

Dancing dots

Hollywood has always loved polka dots, from Clara Bow to Zazu Pitts. Perhaps costume designers appreciated the graphic spark polka dots added to black and white film.

A Gallery of Hollywood Polka Dots

Clara Bow

Zazu Pitts

Lauren Bacall

Myrna Loy

Shirley Temple

Marilyn Monroe

Minnie Mouse

Then there's the tale of Chili Williams, a WWII pinup favorite who became known as "The Polka Dot" girl after this photo in a bathing suit (stitched up by the photographer) ran in Life magazine in 1943. She had a brief film career during the war years and was not related to that other bathing beauty, Esther Williams.

The opposite of chilly...

I shudder to mention 1960's "Itsy Bitsy Teenie Weenie Yellow Polka Dot Bikini", but it's probably playing in your head right about now. Ending on a high note, Frank Sinatra's first hit song with Tommy Dorsey in 1940 was "Polka Dots and Moonbeams".

Bow tie and matching lyrics

Women We Love: Christine Lagarde

She may look a bit like Princess Diana might have at her age, but Christine Lagarde is her own very French chic. As far as a woman on the world's stage today, who can even touch her for style?

At 56 years old (twice divorced, two grown sons and in a relationship to get all that out of the way), she has obviously hit her professional stride as managing director of the World Monetary Fund and Woman in Charge of Herself.

If she's got one trick up her sleeve (make that around her neck), the lady knows how to wear a scarf:

If Helen Mirren is between projects she might consider her next role.

When Helen met Christine...

Our own Hillary Clinton is awarded the Most Improved Since College. Methinks Christine has always had It.

Hillary the graduate and summa cum laude

And while we're on the subject of Women We Love (in this case not all of whom are real), let's not forget Terence Stamp in his wonderful turn as Bernadette in "Priscilla Queen of the Desert".

Singing Bernadette's praises

Trick or Tat?

Getting touchy-feeling at the agora

A little early for Halloween you say? So why are these tacky-to-the-touch goods masquerading as acceptable apparel? The other day I was feeling my way around Banana Republic. You know— fingering the fine gauge sweaters and running a discreet hand down the hand of the silk blouses. Quel disappointment! Too much muddle in the mix. Nothing felt— well— nice. Is this how manufacturers must economize now— it looks good but feels "off"?

A bridge too far?

What the heck is "ponte" anyways? You are right if you see the similarity between ponte and Italian for bridge. The fabric was originally named "Ponte di Roma" or "Roman Bridge" which is "suggested by the arrangement of loops". This blend of poly, rayon and spandex fabric looks the same on both sides. It's like a heavy-weight double-knit jersey and is almost always a swath of solid color.

Is there a home for Wayward Acrylic?

Whatever happened Virgin Acrylic? And it's best friend Orlon (the trade name for acrylic fibers first hatched in 1941)? Methinks my old sweaters are not biodegrading in a Brooklyn landfill. I picture them in a twisted heap of sludge, trying their best to get back to the test tube as they surely will never return to Nature. Perhaps I should go visit them.

Actually I kind of like these...

How about Tencel? This staple of the Better Old Ladies' Wear department actually feels great. Like Alec Guinness in his impervious-to-dirt white suit, Tencel never wrinkles. A little creepy perhaps, but Tencel would appear to be the most natural of all the unnatural-feeling stuff. Tencel is the trade name for lyocell, a biodegradable material made from wood pulp celluose. If it's environmentally friendly, versatile, durable and made from trees managed for sustainable harvest, why do we not see more of it?

Not the same ilk as silk

Here's another question: Even if the feel remains the same, why does a 100% viscose blouse masquerading as silk cost $158? And if it looks like silk, costs like silk, even need to be drycleaned like silk, should I still care that it's not silk?

E-commerce keeps on growing. Not only can you not try it on or get a true sense of the color on your computer, there's no way to feel it. Until someone invents a better touch-screen we will have to accept that our pig-in-a-poke may not actually feel soft as pigskin.

"I Write, I Shop, I Dress, and I'm Hungry for More"

It was a year ago today... that I launched this effort into the blogosphere. What started as entertainment soon became therapy and then A Calling. The mind boggles how many "hits" (over 16,000), from where (Indonesia???) and followers (not all of whom were nice enough to sign on just because they are friends). You know this will only encourage me...

Since Fashion is both fluffy and fickle, there is always something new heading our way— or something to remember when yesterday is a lot sharper in mind than tomorrow. There are times I do wonder how the next idea will appear. As contradictory as this may sound, the answer may be not to think about it. I'm woefully aware I could use a good editor, so if syntax and grammar are your forte, please forgive.

Thanks, Anthony Bourdain, for letting me co-opt your catchphrase. Someday I must write about your amazing cool middle-aged dude look. You are AllWays in Fashion.

Cool— no reservations about it

Deciphering the Season Thanks to Elle

I've long realized the fashion magazines give us more "meat" in the appetizer than in the main course. While once I slogged through all those front-of-the-book pages in great anticipation for the editorial "well", I am now convinced news you can really use is on the left-hand pages facing the ads.

Magazines, especially big issues such as September, have many left-hand pages to fill. Someone has determined the reader will see a right-hand page first. Advertisers are wont to put their money where the eyes are.

In olden days of yore, when I toiled in the industry, editorial on the left-hand pages were called "turns", presumably because you just kept turning until you hit the good stuff. Like oddly delicious British sausages, they were mostly filler. Today that seems to be where to find the skinny on what to wear, what to buy and what's happening. Take September Elle for example.

Fashion Director Joe Zee, who seems like an awfully nice man on the tv show "All on the Line", has three fun pages labeled Elements of Style A to Z. "A" is Arm Candy (handbags) and "Z" is Zzzzzzs (a good night's sleep).

Things really heat up when you reach page 329 and Elle targets all the trends in the Elle Shops Fall Shopping Guide. It took a long time for me to get through the forest of trees that became September magazines, so that issue is now off the newsstand. Let me parse it for you:

Minimal— We're talking maximum minimal with the biggest silhouettes since the '80s. Boxy jackets and straight leg pants in clear colors. Color blocking gone minmal as in each piece is a block.

Wide-leg trousers— Elle showed white.

Graphic sweaters—Op and Pop but in a subtle way 

Body-conscious dress— Note to self: Buy stock in Spanx.

Leather— Any color as long as its black. Quilted, embossed, pleated, pleather, vinyl or the Real Thing. Wear with more black.

Puffer vest— This is nice in black as well.

Cropped trousers— Still? Okay...

Layered textures— Color, pattern, textures, oh my

Patent slicker— At least it's not black

Printed pants— Speaking softly not shouting

Patterned overcoat— Why should your winter armor be boring?

Blouses— They can make a look or change a mood. When was the last time you bought one?

Gold rush— Marie Antoinette, make way for the czarina. This look references Faberge, the Hermitage and Rasputin.

Gold jeans— See my blog of October 15, 2011. Am I psychic or what?

Metallic dresses— Don't pack this in your carry-on

Rock candy— It doesn't have to be real to rock

Camisoles— Going solo

Peacoat— Really? I mean, this is just classic

Pencil skirt— Make that your fanciest pencil ever

Lace— Last but not least or less 

Plus there are 20 bags and 20 pairs of shoes to ogle. Sixteen pages later is it any wonder your head may be swimming? Are you thinking you might just sit this one out? Be aware that this is not the Great Mix & Match Game. You are going to have to decide, at least on a day-by-day basis, if you are neo-classic or neo-gothic. My advice is to breathe deeply then get creative in your closet. 

The Loveliest Designer You Don't Know

Her own best model

Say you've never heard of Rocksanda Ilincic let alone how to pronounce her name? Well, she's my little London Fashion Week find. I'm not the first to the party. Her elegant day and evening looks have been worn by a list of glitterati including Gwyneth Paltrow, Bjork, Margherita Missoni, Kate Hudson, Tilda Swinton, Chloe Sevigny, Thandie Newton, Michelle Obama and Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge. The stuff of dreams for we mere mortals, but Rocksanda has also collaborated with two British "high street" shops, Whistles and Debenhams.

Spring 2013

Finally a clutch big enough to actually hold something

Rocksanda is a Serbian-born designer based in London. She first showed a collection in 2003. Though I have seen her listed as a "former model" serious research (ok Wikipedia) states that she first studied architecture in her native Yugoslavia before graduating with a degree in womenswear design from prestigious Central Saint Martins  in London. Rocksanda's is hardly a household name in America, but there is something fresh yet timeless and very interesting about her designs.

Michelle in Rocksanda with that guy

Kate hitting the mark yet again

She also designs lines of swimwear, handbags and children's clothes. She dressed the American Express concierges at London Fashion Week, whom I saw up close and personal. The frocks were so simple, stunning and colorful— a tuck and a fold here, a drape there and— boom— dressmaker magic.

Nice uniforms

This is someone who has something to say that is worth wearing. I'm intrigued.

One more of Rocksanda