Tuesday, November 6, 2012

Home Alone


What do you wear when no one is there? Like that tree in the forest, does what you wear matter if no one sees it? In my day I have probably tackled all the scenarios:

1) Wear your grubbiest, most broken in and most comfortable one-step-short-of-the-rag-bin garments.

2) Change into purpose-bought "at home" clothes usually referred to as "lounge wear"— too good for bed but not meant for street wear.

3) Don't even bother to change out of work clothes until you fall into bed.

4) Recycle what was trendy and fun a few seasons ago, but is a little tired and/or pilled today.

And here's what happened:

1) Those worn out garments, soft as downy chick feathers and twenty shades from their original colors, are Giving Up. It's depressing that you knowingly choose to put those on, let alone keep them stashed somewhere within reach. Does not count if you are about to strip furniture or rake leaves.

2) Spurred on by some crazy logic, I decided that "at home" clothes required a dollars-and-cents investment. Once, when summarily let go from a job, I bought a rainbow-striped turtleneck to wear as I sent off resumes and cleaned dresser drawers. That sweater was my scarlet letter. Putting it on signaled another day of house arrest. First new paycheck = turtleneck in donate bin.

3) In this scenario stains (of the cooking and eating variety) require a committed relationship with your dry cleaner. Once fallen into bed, changing out of work clothes is optional.

4) This is what I seem to be doing lately, easing the too-good-for-Goodwill/too-tired-for-town into their next life at the thrift shop.

Friday, November 2, 2012

Women We Love: Jenna Lyons

Does the "J" in J. Crew stand for "Jenna"?

J. Crew. Who knew? Would you ever imagine this emporium of preppy t-shirts and chinos would go all glam on us? J. Crew was a step above the GAP, style-wise, but just a tiny step. Suddenly (ok the past four or five years) J. Crew has become both a desirable and an aspirational brand. Once popularly-priced, J. Crew now touts Italian cashmere as well as a pair of wool pants priced at $495. Credit goes to Mickey Drexler, of course, who took over the successful but predictable brand in 2005 and to one other person— the mysteriously alluring Jenna Lyons.

Since I am indeed old enough to be Jenna Lyons' mother (she's 43) you might wonder why I've included her in my list of Women We Love (which in subtext is Women of a Certain Age Usually Over 60). Jenna Lyons is a great example of Timeless Style. If you wanted to adopt her look at 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70 to infinity and beyond, you could. The principles are easy:

DO SOMETHING TO TURN IT ON ITS HEAD
> Add something shiny to casual
> Add something messy to perfect
> Unbutton a few buttons 

A modern muse
Jenna herself is not classically beautiful but definitely striking. The fact that she is six feet tall with a supermodel's frame doesn't hurt. Born in Boston, raised in California, her fashion obsession started early. Her grandmother gifted 12-year-old Jenna with a sewing machine and a subscription to "Vogue". She says it was "Love at first Vogue" and went on to graduate from Parsons (in the same class as Derek Lam). She joined J. Crew in a very minor position at age 21 and has been there since. Her actual title? President and Executive Creative Director.

Unlike fashion that dictates from on high, the popularity of the Jenna Lyons Look just happened. First it's the vintage-y costume jewelry necklace with a t-shirt and tomboy jeans. Then add a blazer (roll up the cuffs). Or pair a chambray shirt with a brocade pencil skirt. Don't forget the horn-rimmed glasses. It's a mix of high and low— J. Crew still has $24 tees alongside the sequins and brocade— and a mix of girly with tomboy. It's the mash-up that makes it modern.

Some of Jenna's put-togethers may make you smile, but I think that's also the point. And I just love the way she poses, so simply and directly:

As befits a modern celebrity, Jenna has weathered a few media dust-ups. There was the photo story showing her five-year-old son sporting pink toenail polish and her comment "Lucky for me I ended up with a boy whose favorite color is pink. Toenail painting is way more fun in neon." Then a year ago Jenna left her husband, supposedly for another woman. Wait a minute— Mary Portas, Jenna Lyons... are we trend spotting?
What's a little dust-up between friends?

It all adds to the Jenna mystique. Just who is this woman with such style, drive, talent and the courage of her convictions?

Tuesday, October 30, 2012

EOF: Blue Chambray Shirt

Shala Monroque rockin' the blues

I'd like to propose a new planet in the fashion universe: Equal Opportunity Fashion. EOF also stands for Equal Opportunity Flatterer. To become an EOF you must work for women of all ages, bodies and tastes. With tweaking perhaps but the basics must be there.

Hello, sailor...

What qualifies? Off the top of my head: pearl studs, black tights, denim jacket... Today's nominee? the blue chambray work shirt. It's been around a while— since the latter part of the 19th century as worn by farmers, factory workers and others in manual labor trades (thus the term "blue collar"). WWII- era sailors wore 'em with aplomb. And this year, it seems, women everywhere are wearing them— and looking good.

The J. Crew party look

Because the blue chambray shirt is not native to her wardrobe, a girl wearing it has consciously decided to go tomboy, which is already— let's face it— a little sexy. The idea is you've raided your guy's closet for a shirt in the morning as all your clothes are strewn about the house. The nature of chambray (or cambric as it used to be called) is going to be a little rumpled and worn-in.

If diamonds are a girl's best friend, 
chambray is her best boyfriend

It's relaxed structured dressing that knows no bounds in its ability to be customized. As a casual piece it's way more dressed than a t-shirt. Over a bathing suit it's more acceptable than a robe. As a third piece to finish a look it's less serious than a jacket. It keeps the pants or skirt from trying too hard. Paired with a party skirt it's an immediate fun evening. Unlike a wardrobe of jeans you probably need just one.

One shirt = many looks

Tomorrow is Halloween. 
If you're too old for a costume... 
Why don't you... chambray your own special way?*
*with thanks to Diana Vreeland of course

Sunday, October 28, 2012

A Career Launched With "Lunch"


No, you have not stumbled onto a misplaced posting of Ari Seth Cohen's  blog "Advanced Style". This topographical joy of a face belongs to 97 year-old Italian actress Valeria de Franciscis. She plays Gianni Di Gregorio's mother in two wry comedies, "Mid-August Lunch" (2008) (also her first film role) and "The Salt of Life" (2011).

In this day of information overload, she is a bit of a mystery online. Even her Wikipedia page (once translated from the Italian) has little to say other than she was born in Rome of noble stock and her mother died when she was two. She was awarded the "Best Young Actress" prize at the Perugia Film Festival at age 93 for her role in "Mid August Lunch". The rapport between Valeria and Gianni is so natural it would not have surprised me to learn they are actually mother and son.
"Mother and son"
Actress and director/co-star

At first glance you may think the Mother is a character of fun with her Dolly Parton wig and too much makeup. But in both films you see she has an elegance and joie d'vivre that goes beyond half-finishing 100 euro-bottles of Krug champagne with her poker-playing cronies. Early on it's clear Mother has not lost her marbles by a long shot. She knows exactly how to manipulate with charm and has everyone eating out of her hand.

You soon grow to appreciate that keeping up appearances may be the fiber that holds her together and earns the respect of those even at her unwilling beck and call.

Should anyone be interested in a film about the later days of Coco Chanel, may I present Valeria, for your consideration.







Friday, October 26, 2012

Hello, Gorgeous

Duro and friends

The man in the middle is Duro Olowu. Okay, you've never heard of him... yet. This Nigerian-born, London-based designer of his own line of luxury loveliness will be designing a Spring 2013 capsule collection for J.C. Penney! Now that is reason indeed for an exclamation point. Is this not like Eric Ripert cooking up a dish for MacDonald's? I mean, really, how lucky can a gal get?

Another one of Duro's friends

Duro Olowu has been a special favorite to Google and drool over since I saw one of his dresses in Amanda Brooks' book "I Love Your Style". His influence is his native Nigeria mixed with giant gulps of dash and sass. Originally set to become a lawyer, he has only been designing since 2005. Michelle Obama is an enthusiastic fan.

Maybe...

There is no real word on what will be in the collection, though jewelry, shoes and handbags have been mentioned along with the apparel, each to sell under $100. The dress above may be part of it. The images below are from the high-end Spring 2013 collection.


This past September I thought about slinking past his atelier in Duke's Yard, St. James, in London to press my nose against the glass, but lost my nerve (and ran out of time). Fortunately my local J.C. Penney is only 9 miles from home, no passport needed.

With luck, this will be my Spring 2013 wardrobe

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

A Few Good Things

Can you have just one?

It's taken a long time to embrace the philosophy of Less is More. It will never truly happen. For the same price I'll probably choose a cafeteria buffet over one appetizer at the Ritz. Not that I wouldn't enjoy the Ritz... it just depends who's paying.

Likewise with things that surround me. Not that I don't love a beautiful object purchased at a great price— the decorative chachka bought at deep discount, the "find" from an estate sale, the end-of-season bargain ferreted out at my upscale clothing emporium of choice. I also cherish things I've held onto for no real reason, only to realize they are quite amazing— my mother's mid-century porcelain dinnerware by Eva Zeisel or her leopard skin belt (never wear the belt but use the china). I don't usually make a purchase that I know is pricey and live not to regret it.
In the  Museum of Modern Art and Chez Moi

Not lately though. In small ways I seem to be absorbing the "you get what you pay for" aspect of life— great theater seats (at a price), the best aged cheddar (at a price one used to see listed for gold), regular-priced clothing items bought in season and not for any immediate need. I (gulp) use my best perfume almost daily, even if it means I have to replenish it myself.

I'm also looking askance at "make do and mend". Love may be a battleground, but otherwise we are not at war. It was time to ditch the serviceable-but-not-lovely IKEA table and the comfy-but-rusty-chairs on the patio and get that French bistro set I've been eyeing in the Ballard catalogue for years.
Breakfast will now become Le Petit Dejeuner

Why? Is it because I just turned 70 and realize one can't see how many more corners there are to turn? I'm certainly not a fatalist. I do have good genes and avoid jaywalking. I guess I've reached the place where I realize, in the words of the immortal Fats Waller, "One never knows, do one?"
A little misbehavin' may be in order

Sunday, October 21, 2012

Do (Stylish) Men Matter?

The Mad Hatter: mad about style?

Do you dress for men or for other women? What a loaded question. The answer should be, "Neither, I dress for myself". You would, of course, be kidding yourself. Who we dress for is a cocktail of one part fashion magazine, one part _____________ (fill in the blank of someone whose style you admire), one part friends and/or co-workers, a dash of Mother (what she taught you or what she liked), one part you (the part you're sure of) and maybe, just maybe, a squeeze of the man in your life (depending on the day and the hour).

Who do men dress for? Ask one, and he'll say—unhesitatingly— himself. Men have an easier time than women with their attire requirements— from boy scout uniforms to business suits to working kit to sports gear (fan or player). He doesn't even think about them. You would expect my husband, an art director, would have enjoyed mixing/matching and coordinating outfits, but it was I who put his shirts, ties and suits together. Why? He dressed in a certain way because he had to, but he didn't really care.

That's not to say he doesn't have some major likes and dislikes. He hates button-down collars and crew neck sweaters (alas not a Prepster) but has always worn cowboy boots, even in Brooklyn (style with chutzpah). No doubt the men in your life have their own quirks as well. Chances are, however, they are not stylish.

Most women don't want to compete with a style-obsessed man. We want him to look presentable but expend more effort appreciating us than themselves. The exception: gay men seem to be able to do both. I also suspect we women look on dressing our man as a bit like marking our territory.

When men try too hard to have style it becomes their undoing and is not admirable. Look what happened to Jay Gatsby. We'll have a chance to see Leonardo DiCaprio's interpretation whenever the latest incarnation of "The Great Gatsby" gets released.
Robert as Jay (1974)
Leonardo as Jay (2012? 2013?)

Tom Wolfe has style. So does Hugh Hefner. This is style as a joke, and style is not a laughing matter.
Tom is not crying wolf 
Hugh knew?

Movie star style is hardly trustworthy. Movie stars don't just get dressed; they are dressed. Thus Jack Sparrow has style to spare. Johnny Depp himself? Maybe not so much.
Jack knows...
...but Johnny knows jack

The true test of a man's style is how he wears a tux. He should wear it; it shouldn't wear him. Cary, Fred and Sean pass the tux test.

My husband's style idol, when asked? Steve McQueen. Now I know why I married him.
King McQueen

Friday, October 19, 2012

It's That Time Again


The Holidays. Yes, I mean ThanksgivingChristmasHanukahKwanzaNewYear'sEve. That one. Does the thought of entertaining at this time of year strike terror to your heart? There is nothing casual about holiday entertaining. One can't call up a bunch of friends for a spur of the moment get-together any time between November 22 and January 1. Everyone has Plans, and if you're thinking of a holiday party, chances are you're planning it already.

The last thing you are planning? What to wear. You know you will have to get out of the comfy slacks and ragged t-shirt you've been wearing all day while cooking. You know you owe it to your guests to make an Effort, but that anything fluffy and pretty will be ruined. An apron will be too Mad Men, even if it's a cute one from Anthropologie. What to wear? What would Laura Petrie do?
Laura's parties looked like this
My parties never looked like this

That's right— Laura Petrie, Dick Van Dyke's wife on the "Dick Van Dyke Show". His name on the show was Rob Petrie, but he was always Dick Van Dyke. Laura was played by Mary Tyler Moore, but (at the time at least) she was just Laura Petrie. Laura was always ready for company. Though we never saw her preparing, I suspect she didn't own ratty cooking clothes. Her style, reflecting the 1961-66 time period, was a cross between Audrey Hepburn as Sabrina and Jackie Kennedy. Hers wasn't a trend-setting character a la Marlo Thomas in "That Girl". Laura Petrie's style personified the idealized young American wife— the one I expected to morph into whenever I found that Prince.
Audrey...
...to Laura
Jackie...
...to Laura

I've yet to solve the what-to-wear-to-my-own-party dilemma. I almost can't remember anything. There have been a number of ruined silk shirts and a few sweat-drenched black turtlenecks. I do recall a floor-length plaid cotton jumper worn with a shrunken t-shirt that was a success— sweat-proof and washable and no worries about the shoes. Let's hope the parties themselves were more memorable.

There is a solution, but it will require some fast planning on your part— Halloween. Then you can go (or stay) as anything, maybe even Laura Petrie.