Madame Predicts...Nothing New

That's right, from my perch on high (reading the fashion press and trolling upscale and mid-scale shopping meccas around town), I see nothing new for spring-summer 2019 (or sprummer as I call it).

Spring is a state of mind here in Houston and increasingly in the rest of the world. One day is winter; the next day is summer, then back to winter, then summer again with spring maybe at 3 AM for an hour or two.

What to wear is all about how you relate to the season of the day and where you are going. At the Lovely Boutique Where I Work, it's summer somewhere. Our offerings are all colorful versions of the classics we sell, but what to wear to work?  I caught myself almost choosing a linen shirt with velvet pants the other morning.

So let's just forget about spring.

If you liked your wardrobe from last summer, well—hurrah—I don't think you'll be tempted to buy anything new. I see the same mix of Boho, sleek chic, athletic wear, menswear, and quirky retro.  This is not meant to be worn together; it's more a choose-your-own-adventure. Pick your path and play along. All the players are staying true to their thing: Etro, Ralph Lauren, Gucci, Armani, etc.

Etro

Ralph Lauren

Gucci

Armani

 
If there is something you missed finding—the right sundress or jumpsuit or wicker basket bag—you'll have another chance this year. None of the trends appear "out", a reprieve if you will. In truth it's been a very long time since we worried about what's in/what's out. Like super-permissive parents, fashion seems afraid to tell us "no". I worry what that can lead to.

You say you got nothing from this post? That's kind of the point. Despite the fluctuations in temperature, the azaleas are still budding. Next summer will soon be this summer, and I'll look the same.

That might not be a bad thing.

Now where can I find a version of these Chanel pants?

Dressing the Wife

 
There once was a how-to fashion book called "Wife Dressing: The Fine Art of Being a Well-Dressed Wife", published in 1959 and written by Anne Fogarty, a popular American designer. The book has some timeless advice, but that title is rough. Some book titles, like fashion, don't wear well.

This post is about the movie, "The Wife". Glenn Close plays a stoic, long-suffering wife of a famed author about to receive his Nobel Prize. He's not much of a prize himself, a philandering egomaniac who is something of a big baby. Glenn Close does a terrific job, never crossing the line into melodrama and pity.

I didn't realize there was more to "The Wife" than all this suffering, which is why it took me so long to see it. Glenn Close is up for an Academy Award, and she deserves it. Her wife has a story to tell, which is revealed even more in her eyes than words in the screenplay.

I had been told, "Michelle, you'll love the clothes.", but I don't spend the bucks and fight the crowds at the multiplex just to see nice clothes. They were, however, lovely. 

Joan's clothes hint at the steely person inside. From practical plaid flannel pajamas to a classically formal gown for the Nobel ceremony, Joan is a woman of few frills but impeccable taste.

Everything is of the best quality.  She wears a "good cloth coat" to Stockholm as she thought fur would be ostentatious—the movie takes place in 1992 when we did wear fur—but it's the most luscious camel wool coat ever. She knows the power of a good scarf. She knows enough to keep an ethnic jacket free of extraneous adornment. An important part of her look is cropped but softly styled silver hair, restrained makeup and fine accessories. Her jewelry is either unobtrusive or an artistic piece possibly from a museum shop.

 
These are clothes chosen by a woman who likes nice things but doesn't want to stand out. You get the feeling an afternoon of shopping would not be her idea of a good time, especially as she turns down that very suggestion.

The movie has more than a few surprises which I won't reveal. Here's one I will. The actress who plays the younger Joan in flashbacks is Glenn Close's own daughter, Annie Starke. Now that is perfect casting.

The Older Model Bandwagon

Turning silver to gold...

Along with diversity in general there has been a real effort to cast older models who are relatable to ordinary women.

I do love a fantasy supermodel, a Maye Musk or Carmen Dell'Orefice. Too often, however, older models look like a second thought. I can hear the (young) art directors thinking, "Oh let's put her in the shot but keep her matronly and don't let her smile" or "Let's get some garishly outlandish older woman because everyone loves a character."

The fashion industry has been notoriously stupid for ages. I remember having navels airbrushed from two-piece swimsuit photos back in the '60s. That was only just after we stopped whittling down already skinny models at the waist.

I still want some fantasy in my fashion. If a model is too young, I just  mentally lop off her head when considering the clothes. I can determine if they will be right for me.

I do love to see someone who is not only older and beautiful but could be a woman I work with, volunteer with or am friends with. I saw an example today, looking at me from the window of Dress Barn, next to the Dollar Store in a strip mall. I usually pass by Dress Barn grateful there are other stores to shop. I'd never been inside.

Reflecting the window...and me?

I was stopped by a poster of an older woman with long grey hair.  Her expression is candid; she's thinking of something. She's also decidedly wrinkled and freckled, like me. The poster is huge, probably six feet high. She's beautiful, but she's also real, and what she tells me is I can still wear a leopard knit top with jeans and push up the sleeves. Why the hell not?

The "she" in the photo is Roxanne Gould, a 60-year-old native Californian. Dress Barn—sizes range from 4-24—is using a diverse group of models in a campaign promoting they are "more than just a name".

  
The tall (5'11") Roxanne joined her model mother in a Bayer Aspirin shoot at age 3 and has been modeling since. She spent 9 years in Europe as a popular, dependable model, but her career really took off when she stopped dyeing her gray hair and let it go natural. She's found more success than she ever did as one of a barrel-full of pretty girls.

Pretty, sure, but...

  
I truly believe the key to happiness as we get older is accepting ourselves. I'll never look like Roxanne, but I love looking at her. Those two sentences have got to be the ying and yang of woman.

    

Confidence!

I'm always a little behind in my magazine reading around the holidays, so I just got to December Elle, with Michelle Obama on the cover, interviewed by Oprah inside.

This is what we should all have—the confidence and pure joy Michelle Obama has in her photo shoot. This not a willowy thin model. You may know who I'm thinking of, the one with the perpetual scowl who now lives on Pennsylvania Avenue. This is a normal-sized, healthy, happy and confident woman who by the nature of all that magic mixing together, is absolutely beautiful. Stunning.

Is this a life lesson? I hope so.

Matte About This Lipstick

I rarely tackle Beauty in the blog. Not that it isn't Fashion, but I thought I'd leave Beauty to the experts. New beauty products are constantly introduced, many promising miracles. Some work, some don't.

A generous friend once gifted me with La Mer, one of those miracles-in-a-jar that sells for $130 an ounce. I was loathe to use it as I was afraid it would work too well. Well, La Mer was lovely; I managed to stop at one jar. I still believe it isn't which moisturizer you put on your face as long as it's something.

The paint box is another story. These cosmetics really can perform miracles, albeit temporarily. This is where habits are hard to break. I usually switch products only when they stop making my favorite. I always feel I could benefit from lessons. Those so far have left me running from the makeup counter to the ladies' room, kleenex in hand. These might be something I actually need to pay for...

This is all a long-winded intro to a recent discovery. Zara has introduced their first lipsticks—12 "velvety-matte" lipsticks ($12.90 each) and 8 "ultra-matte" liquid lipsticks ($9.90 eacht6).

I'm not a fan of liquid lipstick but decided to give one of the velvety-mattes a try. The lipsticks popped up as I perused Zara's sale online; they're not carried in my local store. You might want to check yours. 

 
I've never had luck with matte lipstick. I've hated the chalky way it goes on and sits on your lips. I'm not even convinced matte lipstick is the way to go. Aren't we supposed to look all dew-y and kissable? I picked this one as it reminded me of my dearly-beloved and late-lamented Mahogany lipstick from Biba.

Well, surprise, surprise. It does look matte in the tube but goes on smoothly. It actually feels creamy. It's a bit scented, but not unpleasantly so. That dissipates as it quickly dries. It stayed on for ages—through a cup of mid-morning coffee and into lunch. I could probably have gone without a touch-up, but I liked that creamy feel so went ahead with one. Unlike some other lipsticks (matte or creamy) it didn't bleed into my lips (and my lips are pretty old). Check, check, check. So it's that miracle of science—a creamy matte.

You might want to take a flyer on this one. I'd like to know what you think.

A Few More Ways Not to Look Old

 
It's a new year. Why look old?

One of the ways to look old is to dress young, too young. Too young means ruffles (except around a hemline), puffed sleeves, puffy anything else (except a puffer coat), Alice in Wonderland headbands, midriff tops, clothes that fit too tight, etc.

Too old can be outdated eyeglass frames, shoes that look more comfortable than stylish (it is possible to have both), baggy clothes, items beginning to show wear (pilled sweaters and scuffed leather), and wearing what no one is wearing anymore.

Some of us reach a point where we feel we have enough clothes and better things to do than try to keep up with the fickle finger of fashion. That's when your look can become frozen in time. Trust me, you will not appear timeless.

Another hard truth is sometimes you just have to let go. Something you have always loved may have its moment and then be gone. Tough as this may be, you must put it away for a while.

 
For example: the kimono jacket.

I've always had a few in my closet, folkloric or Boho or Asian. A collar-less, no-button, slightly oversized T-shape jacket in an interesting woven or embroidered fabric This was my go-to what-to-wear for an evening event where dressing up was expected and creativity was okay. A kimono was easy to pack in a suitcase. It folds flat! With a black top and black pants (satin, silk or velvet depending on the season) it became an instant evening look.

Then kimonos got popular.

Suddenly they were everywhere...

...but not where I wanted to be.

When I first noticed they were in the stores again, I was happy to join in. I added several fanciful new ones and wore them often. At first I felt ahead of the game, then right in style, then just one of the pack. When kimonos were everywhere at every price point and on everyone, I put mine away. Perhaps this was a little act of fashion snobbery on my part, but I didn't want to hang on too long.

   

It's hard to keep up with how fast fashion changes. Even classics come and go. They are called classics for a reason, but they're not always "in style". When was the last time you saw anyone wearing a twin set with pearls? Yet those are certainly classics.

As we get older we learn not to get rid of the good stuff because it will come back. Belts come and go. A good belt will not deteriorate waiting for its time again (though your waistline may). Delicate jewelry is in; then it's out; now it's in. Just hold onto it. How much drawer space could it possibly take up?

Part of not looking old is being current. If you sense its time has come and gone, give it a rest.

If you love bell bottoms, but no one is wearing them, put 'em away. If you like velour track suits (I'm just saying), but no one is wearing them, put 'em away. If you love kimonos, but the look looks tired...well, you know what to do. 

It's knowing what to wear when that means you are staying on top of things.

Coming Attraction: Frida Kahlo in Brooklyn

Frida Kahlo didn't clean out her closets, and that's a good thing. Traveling from London's V&A, Frida Kahlo: Appearances Can Be Deceiving will be on view at the Brooklyn Museum of Art beginning February 8, 2019 to May 12, 2019.

Frida, the painting

Frida, the person

This will be the first U.S. exhibit of Frida's clothing and personal possessions, locked away since her death in 1954 and only discovered in 2004.  I was fortune to see them some years ago on display at Casa Azul in Mexico City, the beautiful family compound and her home since childhood.

The courtyard of Casa Azul

Frida Kahlo's work was intensely personal. She was a prolific painter and confronted every triumph, tragedy, fear and longing in her art. Frida was a dramatic personality and lived life to the fullest while in almost constant pain. Injuries from a bus accident when a young woman never healed, and multiple surgeries never helped. She had a tumultuous marriage to the also charismatic Diego Rivera. Then there was that affair with Leon Trotsky...

A rather odd couple...

Some of Frida's iconic looks

Frida often chose garments that represented her culture and country, yet she was a very modern woman. She smoked. She wore cat's eye sunglasses and used Revlon cosmetics. Coincidentally Revlon is a sponsor of the Brooklyn show.

 
Frida's art, her life, and her style are sources of endless fascination and scholarly analysis. She continues to be celebrated and homaged This show at the Brooklyn Museum of Art should be all that—and a feast to behold.

Revelations Not Resolutions

First end-of-year order of business: Thank you. Thank you for reading. Would I write if you didn't read? Maybe. That would be called a diary. Do I write because you read? Maybe. That would be called a sense of purpose. As the year draws to a close, I publish my 586th effort and send my heartfelt

T  H  A  N  K  S.

Now to the business at hand: Rather than make New Year's Resolutions (that I always break), I'm looking back at what the year meant for me in terms of fashion, both grim and good.

THE GRIM 

> I still can't figure out how to deal with my legs. Tights in winter are fine, but Texas winters are short. Sheer pantyhose are still frumpy. We know Meghan and Kate only wear them because they have to. Pants are still the great equalizer, but sometimes you just feel like a skirt.

> I tried to write a book this year. Let's say I tried to get a publisher interested in a book about fashion for older women. My illustrator friend and I thought we had a great idea for this rather tricky subject and would do it with humor and finesse. Despite a lot of positive feedback no one was willing to take a chance as between the two of us we have about 500 Instagram followers, not anywhere near the 100,000 it takes to get published these days.

Booked with ideas

> I made a few wardrobe mistakes, most blatantly on our trip to Israel wearing khaki and olive. I looked like the oldest recruit in the Israeli army. And I will never travel anywhere again without my packable down jacket.

> Finally, this year saw the continuing demise of magazine publishing, my former bread-and-butter and lifelong love. The current issue of Vogue barely made it to 100 pages, and the last issue of Glamour was—alas—its last.

The first...

...the last

THE GOOD

> I found some pieces on the Will-I-Ever-Find-It? list. That means I can now stop looking for them. I bought not one but two "little black dresses". Either would be the perfect dress for those times when you need a little black dress. There's been a hole in my closet for years. It matters not that I haven't had occasion to wear either one yet. They are there. I found the perfect pussycat bow blouse in the right shade of off-white. Everything is right about it, and I've worn it a lot. I found a pair of black suede kitten heels that are dressy enough for the little black dress, and I can actually stand and walk in them. No small thing, that.

This classic was hard to find

> I hauled less to the thrift shop this year. Must mean I've made less mistakes.

> I learned how to use online shopping to my advantage—as a research tool, to price check and comparison shop, to beat the crowd at the mall (especially during the Zara sale). I learned when not use it (for buying shoes) and that I better make sure returns are easy and preferably free by reading all the fine print.

> I discovered the wonderful Zuri dress. This dress brought fun and joy back into the idea of dressing. It always gets compliments and seems to put everyone in a sunny mood (especially the wearer). I do resolve to get one more in 2019.

The happy Zuri dress

> I made peace with my body (yet again) in terms of what I can't and won't wear. No more full skirts; the proportions are now wrong. No sleeveless because I have nothing to prove and am always cold anyways. Everyone's list is different. The important part is the peace treaty.

> I realized the wisdom of saying "never say never". A store I'd previously dismissed as Not My Style now has many pieces that work for me. Did J.Jill change or did I?

Never say never

The Itsy-Bitsy Bikini Scandal

The $2.50 Ferrarini (left) vs. the $285 Irgit

 
How many of us have seen an interesting crafted accessory or apparel item and thought "I could do that"? I have. If I'm able to recreate something I may even have had dreams of glory: This will make my fortune!

I've made necklaces of wrapped tubing or shredded strips of fabric, bracelets from safety pins and heart-shaped brooches from buttons. I made vests from antique pennants and "portraits" from paint chips. Not one idea was 100% original but 100% inspired by something seen somewhere. After the third or fourth laborious attempt the creations usually found themselves a cozy home in the back of a closet.

Probably a good idea I was not successful, though I doubt I would ever have the hubris to take on Victoria's Secret over copyright infringement of my stolen idea. This is the gist of "The Itsy-Bitsy, Teenie-Weenie, Very Litigious Bikini" in today's New York Times Business section. Read the full piece here:

https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/20/business/kiini-bikini-lawsuit-ipek-irgit-solange-ferrarini.html 

This is not a part of the paper I usually notice, but who could resist their photo of the two bikini tops seen above? In a nutshell, Ipek Irgit, a 34-year-old New Yorker originally from Turkey, was trying to make her way as a "style influencer" but having a hard time making a living doing it. On a vacation trip to Brazil in 2012 (I know—impoverished but on vacation in Rio) she purchased a colorful, hand-crocheted 2-piece bikini in the beach town of Trancoso for about $2.50.

Ipek Irgirt

What separates this bikini from the usual crocheted bikini is the use of elastic threaded through the crochet to give added (and necessary) support. Following positive reaction to the newly christened "Kiini" on the beaches of the Hamptons, Ipek decided to go into production. She asked a designer friend with connections in China to copy it and have it manufactured.

The bikinis were a hit. Ipek turned an item costing $29 to produce into a $285 "high end resort wear brand, designed by Ipek Irgit" (quoted from the website). After a modest start, the Kiini took off following an appearance on model Dree Hemingway in an Instagram feed. All the usual suspects came next—websites, magazines, exclusive boutiques, etc.—as did the copycats.

And here is where Ipek Irgit may have lost perspective. She coyprighted the design and decided to sue Victoria's Secret for their similar style. This was settled in Ipek's favor for an undisclosed amount.

The original in its creator's hands

Meanwhile—and here is where things get really interesting—the real designer back in Brazil came forward. Maria Solange Ferrarini, a 61-year-old Brazilian artist of modest means created and has been hand crocheting the originial bikinis since 1998. She sells them herself on the beach at Trancoso. 

Maria selling her suits on the beach

One of the copycats, a brand called PilyQ, started selling simiar suits to Neiman Marcus but managed to strike a licensing deal with the creator, Maria Ferrarini. When Ipek Irgirt got wind of this she decided to sue Neiman Marcus to stop selling a suit in violation of her copyrighted design. Somewhere along the line Ipek lost sight of the fact that she had in fact stolen that design and was now essentially suing the suit's creator. Too many suits and lawsuits in one paragraph!

This is still in litigation. Ipek seems to be tripping over herself in half-truths. There are emails to support the facts and Maria's handmade tag inside the bikini Ipek asked her friend to copy.  Ipek has expanded the styles, but the itsy-bitsy crocheted bikini is still front-and-center of the Kiini line.

The lessons here are many and obvious. The fact that you will never catch me in a crocheted bikini is beside the point.

Coming Attraction: "American Style"

A four-part series called "American Style" will air on CNN in two chunks on Sunday, January 13 and Sunday, January 20.

The series will examine "how America’s changing style through the decades has mirrored the political, social, and economic climate of the time. Using archival footage and interviews with fashion experts and cultural figures including Tim Gunn, Donna Karan, Carson Kressley, Vanessa Williams, Beverly Johnson, Isaac Mizrahi, Christie Brinkley, John Varvatos, Diane von Furstenberg, André Leon Talley and more, the series highlights the most iconic moments from fashion and pop culture, giving audiences a front row seat to the runway of American history." The promotional video has fast cut snippets of Jackie, Elvis, "Sex and the City" and a winking 1950s housewife.

Power dressing, American style

 
The first episode will look at the 1940s and '50s and how World War II and Hollywood helped to define American style. The second episode covers the '60s and '70s; the next two bring us up to the present.

This promises to be a veritable feast for the fashion-possessed eyes, though I doubt it will break any new ground, especially if you have lived through all those eras (check). Sometimes the talking heads just talk too much; I hope visuals are allowed to speak for themselves. Will four hours really be enough??? No doubt there will be controversies. Will someone as important as Claire McCardell will be left out (love to be proven wrong)? In any case this treat is already on the calendar.